AceFoodDesk says here’s todays idea for ‘ Valentine Meal ‘ with your Love for you to enjoy with Kindness & Love XX A&M

Mardi gras is tomorrow, and I’m always looking for something from the south to help celebrate the day. We take seriously all the celebrations we can in mid-February, and tossing beads and dancing to a Zydeco band is right up there with Valentine’s dinners, and the first maple sugar on snow celebrations. 

Ace Press News From Cutting Room Floor: Published: Feb.13: 2024: The Vintage Kitchen News: TELEGRAM Ace Daily News Link https://t.me/+PuI36tlDsM7GpOJe

New England Lobster Étouffée

Oh, that flavor!

When I was younger, we lived in the deep south for a year. I learned to appreciate the vibrant flavors of Creole and Cajun cuisines when we visited New Orleans. Lots of spices, food that makes one pause and appreciate a world of flavor. I tested gumbos and jambalayas, poor boys and red beans and rice, and the lovely seafood gravy étouffée, made with abundant amounts of crawfish, and sometimes shrimp. It is much faster to make than a gumbo, and uses less ingredients, but both are a stew-like gravy with tons of flavor that is served with rice, usually white rice.

Not so much a New England product

But crawfish is not easy to find in New England. I know several fish markets in our wider area that (sometimes) carry the meat frozen, no guarantees. But since this is our region’s take on the delightful dish, I will graciously nod to my southern friends and substitute Maine lobster, which sort of look like giant crawfish if you think about it. We can find live lobsters in most supermarkets most days of the week, so sourcing it here is easy. However, I have lots of substitutions at the end of the post so no matter where you are you can enjoy the flavors, and you can make it vegetarian and fast as well.

Take stock of the situation

Another reason to use fresh lobster rather than the frozen crawfish is so you can make your own lobster stock for the dish and for the rice as well. This is not fast food, but it is worth the time, and most of that time is simmering. The shells and a few odds and ends of veggies make a broth that can be served up as is in a pinch. Whenever we have lobster, I make stock and tuck it in the freezer, and this has saved a Wednesday night’s supper more than once.

It’s a good way to stretch two lobsters to feed six people, so there’s that to think of too.

I added tomato to this version so it is sliding more to the Creole side of things, and I admit to adding a bit of sweet red pepper as well as the traditional green, just to liven things up a bit. I’ve served this over brown rice because that is what I always have on my shelf and it’s a little healthier.

The roux

The roux is at the heart of many of these dishes. For the Étouffée, the roux is cooked only to the peanut butter colored state. In general, the longer the roux cooks and the darker it is, the less thickening power it will have. This is a quicker dish than gumbo, so the lighter roux works fine here; it’s also good if you are impatient. By using olive oil rather than butter for the roux, I cut down considerably on the saturated fat in this recipe with no harm to the flavor. I can hear some of you groaning, but a bit of butter added right at the end adds just the right amount of richness.

A world of possibilities

So many possibilities, so make this dish your own! Garnish as you like, and don’t forget to put on some good Cajun music and dance around the kitchen while everything is simmering.

Laissez les bon temps rouler!

Lobster Étouffée

• Two 1 ½ lb. lobsters
• 1 large yellow onion, diced
• 2 ribs celery, diced
• 1 small green pepper, diced
• 1 small red pepper, diced
• 1/3 cup flour
• 1/3 cup olive oil
• 6 cloves garlic, finely minced
• 1 tbsp. tomato paste
• 1 tbsp. Creole seasoning (recipe below)
• 4 bay leaves
• 4 or five sprigs of thyme
• 3 star anise
• A little more cayenne if you like
• 2 tomatoes, chopped, or 1 can diced tomatoes
• 1 quart lobster or fish or seafood stock
• 1 to 2 tbsp. butter or vegan butter
• 1 cup frozen peas thawed, optional
• Scallions, parsley, etc., to garnish

            Boil or steam the lobsters as you like, or ask your fish monger to do it for you. Most will. Let cool, then remove all the meat, even from the fins and legs, and cut into bite-sized pieces. You should have between 8 and 10 oz. of meat. Keep cool in the refrigerator until needed. If making your own lobster stock, follow directions below before beginning the dish. When done, use that stock both in the étouffée and the cooking of the rice, plus some for the freezer.

            In a large skillet, sauté the onion, celery, and peppers in a little olive oil until translucent, then remove from the skillet. Add the flour and oil and whisk over medium heat, not too hot. This roux will cook for about 10 to 12 minutes, or until the color of peanut butter. Don’t walk away from it.Cook the roux until it is the color of peanut butter. Don’t let the heat get too high or it will burn.Add the garlic and tomato paste and mix well for a minute or so.

     When the roux is ready, add the garlic, tomato paste, and herbs, and let bloom a minute or so, toss in the reserved veggies and the tomatoes and let them all get to know each other for a bit. Then add the stock, bring to a simmer, and let cook away for 20 minutes. Taste for seasoning, then remove from the heat, add the lobster meat to the pot and let warm for a couple of minutes, along with the butter.

            If you like, you can also stir in some thawed frozen peas at the end.

            Serve over brown rice, and garnish with some scallions, parsley, or celery leaves.Not traditional at all, but peas are a nice addition at the end, adding a bit of texture and color.

Shrimp Étouffée: Substitute a pound of 25-30 shrimp, and use the shells to make your own shrimp stock, halving the lobster stock ingredients below.

Quick Étouffée: Because some days you have the time to do it all, and some days you just don’t. You can use frozen lobster meat or tails here, look for 8 to 10 oz. and substitute a good quality seafood stock from the fish market. You can also use a can of diced tomatoes rather than fresh, and if the tomatoes at this time of year don’t look so good, definitely use the canned, including the juices.

Mushroom Étouffée: A vegetarian version, because it is all about the seasonings and the roux. Substitute three portobello mushrooms for the lobster. Remove the gills and cut into 2 cm. pieces. Sauté these along with the onions and other veggies. You can also use any favorite mushroom here, and it is delicious. Use a mushroom or vegetable stock.

Crawfish Étouffée: Of course, if you live in the south, by all means use fresh crawfish meat!

Lobster Stock

• 1 large onion, diced, skins and root and all
• 1 large carrot, diced, peelings and all
• 2 stalks celery, diced, yes, the leaves as well
• ½ head garlic, smashed, peelings and all
• 2 tbsp. tomato paste
• 4 bay leaves
• 1 tsp. fennel seed, crushed
• Shells and body of 2 fresh lobsters
• 10 cups water

Heat a large stockpot over medium high and add a bit of olive oil. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, and sauté until translucent but not browned. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook another minute or so, then add the bay leaves, fennel, and lobster shells. Cover with water and add some salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for about a half hour. Taste and correct the seasoning,

When finished, pour through a mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth.

Freezes beautifully.

Creole Seasoning

Of course, you can buy Creole Seasoning, but you probably already have all these spices in your pantry! This is a favorite house blend, but play with it and make it your own. The flavor of the smoked paprika isn’t traditional, but it adds a little something. You can also use any preferred sweet paprika, or even hot if you want more heat. Always adjust the cayenne to what you want.

• 1 tablespoon each smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, oregano
• 1 teaspoon each thyme, fennel seeds, salt, pepper, and cumin
• ½ teaspoon cayenne
• Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

Mix together in a mortar and pestle or mini food processor until you get the consistency you like.

© Copyright 2024– or current year, The New Vintage Kitchen. Dorothy Grover-Read. Unattributed use of this material is strictly prohibited. Reposting and links may be used, provided that credit is given to The New Vintage Kitchen, with  active link and direction to this original post.

New England Lobster Étouffée

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